Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Highlander Inn & WhiskyCast

[image courtesy of the Highlander Inn, Craigellachie]

An excellent podcast on the 18th April by Mark Gillespie of WhiskyCast, coming from the Highlander Inn in Craigellachie, Scotland. Thank you Mark for bringing this Inn to our attention.

The Highlander Inn will certainly be a stop-off on our unscheduled yet widely talked about D.T.W.C. trip to Scotland in 2012. Gotta love a bar where the whisky list is bigger than the rest of the website.

I highly recommend a listen to Episode 248 at the WhiskyCast website.

The Baron

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

We Didn't Start the Fire: Lagavulin 16yo

The Lagavulin 16yo Single Islay Malt Whisky is the cornerstone expression of this distillery, a distinguished member of Diageo's Classic Malts Selection. For our Australian audience, it is the only Lagavulin release which is widely available here. Sadly, our access to the Distillers Edition* is left to trips to the U.K.

As is the case with my previous reviews, I believe the best indication of a whisky's pedigree is the answer to a simple question: Would I buy it again? Yes. Indeed at this stage of my whisky tasting career it would feature permanently in my collection.

So let's go about explaining why...

Firstly, I love the packaging of this whisky. It is probably my favourite bottle both in terms of colour and contour. The olive green glass compliments the smokey innards tremendously, providing some context for what you are about to consume. The simple bottle design features over-vertical sides and a medium-length bulging neck. It is the same bottle used for the Talisker and Craggamore single malt expressions (also part of Diageo's Classic Malts Selection). The sturdy yet simple dark green box adds an element of mystery and strength, ensuring the whisky's appeal. A wooden-topped cork keeps the contents safely sealed.

On the nose I find a medicinal aroma of alcohol, iodine and sweet tabacco. You can already begin to sense the dryness of whisky.

Try the dram, and after an initial alocholic dry burn retreats you are met with strong smoky cereal notes, which fade to the smokey-tabacco sweetness. The cereal notes remind me of a tasting I once attended, where we chewed some peated-malt barley. I also see similarities between the Lagavulin's smokiness and tennans to a cup of strong Russian Caravan tea (no sugar please).

The finish is very long and you can still taste this whisky hours after drinking.

I wouldn't say it was as complex as some other Islay malts, but therein lies its beauty. I love the strong barley taste, coupled with its smoky dryness. It makes this whisky an excellent summer dram, despite its heavy peatyness. As mentioned in the Baron's review, its the 'bushfire-in-your-belly' effect, it just seems to work for me at anytime of year. The absense of a strong vanilla finish could also assist here, quite refreshing.

Indeed the scary part about this whisky is its addictiveness. I can't explain it, but on my first taste I sensed I would keep returning to this whisky, a daily ritual, akin to a cigarette. She's a dangerous yet tantalising woman, perhaps a post-war glamour akin to Lauren Bacall. A sophisticated, mysterious and curious lady who makes a cigarette look good.

The dram-ometer says 6.25 (from 7).

* Diageo releases a 'Distillers Edition' expression for most of its malts in its Classic Malts Selection.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Buyer Beware: Hart Brothers Macallan 17yo

Now I am not saying I am not willing to try 'all' the independent bottlings that have been making their way into the Australian liquor stores in recent years, but I have to say I am not impressed.

Over priced? I feel they all are (or at least what I have tried so far). Really...just because you put it in a barrel for X amount of years and have to pay the warehousing fees and maintenance does not justify the insult to recoup gains on something so screwed up. If your paying for barrel time then these things should be a hell of a lot better than the commercial bottlings...yes? Over the past year in particular I have tasted 6 independent bottlings and found all to be average at best. Most notable was a bottle of Laphroaig aged 15 years at 54% from independent bottler Cask Strength. A faint shadow of the commercial release. Man that was bad-bad-bad for the price I paid!

What are my thoughts as to what is happening here? Probably the most important is the limited info one gets on these bottles. Extra aging a whisky that was only ever intended to be in the cask for 10 years makes you wonder why the independent bottler did not think "hey maybe they have tried it at 15 years and thought it was crap." Why leave it in the same barrel and not transfer to something else, for example a Madeira casking instead? It all equals risk and boldly going where the commercial distillers have already gone before.

So what has brought on this post? Recently El Capitan graciously gave me a independent bottling of Macallan aged 17 years at 46% by Hart Brothers. I truly cannot say I enjoyed a dram or two, but it has brought into light just how problematic and risky these independent bottlings really are. I have had limited access to Macallan in the past but it has been enough to know this is no Macallan. It is riding the name and not the contents.

Nose: Faint, light, with the sting of alcohol.

Taste: Honestly there is nothing. Nothing at all! The slightest sweetness and dry straw that is instantly lost to the harsh alcohol on the middle of the tongue to the throat. Boring!

Finish: Immediate, lacking interest or intrigue. Nothing to savour and nothing to look forward to. Do I really have to drink the rest of this?

Overall a hard drink. When I gave a tasting to El Capitan it took him no less than 45min to get through the dram. OUCH!

If I was to give a dram? 1 out of 7 just for the effort.

As a side note: I have noticed with GREAT intrigue both Dan Murphy's and Vintage Cellars (for those in Australia) have both drastically marked down the prices on all these independents that have been sitting on the shelves for so long. Even when I saw the 18yo version of this Hart Brothers Macallan marked down to only A$35 at the local did not even tempt me into buying or letting anyone else know about it.

Das Baron